vendredi 8 juin 2012

Pattern composing

It's been more than a month since I delivered the dress ordered by my sister, who wanted an elegant dress for a wedding. Finally, here are the pictures of this project. The request was for a long dress with a square neckline, veil sleeves, fitted waist line (as much as possible, because we don't really have top model body shape in my family), and at least one layer of veil for the skirt to bring a kind a vaporous ambiance.

After many emails - yes, my sister is 200km far so we made the whole project remotely, after shopping in all fabric stores I could find in Rennes, here is the set of fabrics I proposed:

- black lace on silver satin for the bodice
- waist band in black satin decorated with ribbons
- 2 asymetric layers of fabric for the skirt: a dark silver fabric and black organza
- black taffeta for the petticoat
- and not shown on picture: sleeves made of black organza

This set was immediatly approved, so I could start searching for the right pattern. Of course, when you know exactly what you want, you can't find it. And I don't know how to draw a pattern from scratch [not yet]. But no problem. With a little inspiration, it is not really difficult to create a pattern from several existing patterns. Here are those I used for the project:

Burda 7572 for the bodice and waist band

Burda 8058 for the asymetric skirt

Simplicity 3673 (black view), the skirt only as a petticoat

It's the first time I use and alter so many patterns for one project, plus draw a size not provided by the original pattern. Well, actually, yes, I already have drawn extra-sizes, but not for a very fitted shape. But I have to say that the whole project is a "first times" project.

1st time I make a muslin:
I never needed it before. But with the distance, and all patterns and alterations to work with, I though it would be a good idea to make one. And it was ! After the muslin was made, I could send it to my sister, who tried it quietly at home. She just sent me back comments and pictures so that I could improve the pattern.

1st time I use 2 layers of fabric as one, one being lace:
I was so scared one layer moved or to see creases through the lace, so I basted the lace on satin until all bodice seams are done.

1st time I sew an invisible zipper which is really invisible:
I guess it could be better, but compared to my previous (and very first) invisible zipper which is finally a large visible stripe in the center back of a dress, this time I was so proud of the result that I couldn't believe I could make it better. Unfortunately, after the dress was finished I still had some little alterations to do, and I had to take the zipper off and sew it again. What a wonderfull surprise it is still invisible after this second time !

1st time I attach beads to ribbons:
I've already made some little decorating with beads for a bag, but the ribbon was only going through a ring. This time, I used some little clips to attach beads. I was scared that the clips slide, but they didn't.

And finally, here is the result:

In situation:

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